G.O.

©Cubillos

I looked down and the temperature gauge on the car read 42 degrees, fourteen degrees colder than the water temp, which was hovering around 56 degrees. I reached the end of the canyon and made a left onto PCH. The sky was still dark and the air smelled like salt. Swell was in the air. I finished my last sips of coffee about the same time I rolled into a parking space.

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I pulled the cord to my suit up, grabbed my board and walked down the cold wooden stairs. The moon was close to full but not quite round giving it a wobbly oblong shape. I saw heads bobbing up and down over a rising mound of water that had just passed. The cobble stones in the bay were covered completely allowing you to walk over a sand bottom. I entered the water.

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The first wave took me to within twenty yards of the pier. A horseshoe bending set wave came up and I guy that had taken off deep got swallowed up in the foam and fell. A clear take off, the wall approached and lifted me up as I angled onto a curved face of water. The air and water bled into one. It was Going Off.

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Music — The Go Team — The Power is on