Encore

Went to the rock again this morning for a two and a half hour session. Big peak with the bottom dropping out on the outside reef giving way to a playful wall. I set up at Patchies hueco and dialed in. There were a few DOH's that made a very welcomed special appearance. I had some great rides topped off with a tasty veggie breakfast burrito.

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Music — Sidestepper — Chevere o' Chevere

When she comes, she comes

Mamacita delivered the goods, I hit the rock and had sets in the over head range, big drops and clean walls.

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Music — The Sandals — Scrambler

It Begins With The Call Of The Wild

Owww-Owwwwwwww.

I slowly faded from my dream with a transition into reality, (Oprah and I will have to get back to business some other time). The howl of the coyotes continued, I looked at the clock and stared, it was a few minutes before the alarm would sound, I beat the alarm to the punch as I woke up first.

The howling was close. It definitely was not a dog, this was different, it sounded wild, it sounded close and I've heard it before. I peeked out the window and saw nothing, I was groggy so if I did see something I would of probably not noticed.

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I was on the road sipping my coffee , affixing my eyes to the red lights that were five car lengths in front of me, following them like two fire flies slowly guiding me through a path. I flipped on the radio, I still have not fixed my car antennae, so when I drive through the canyon I only get random AM stations, people calling at wee hours in the night with opinions about this and that. Why are they doing that, especially at this hour. Would they think the same thing about me and my dawn patrols? Who cares, I don't expect them or want them to get it.

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Four cars are already parked on PCH, Mike is suiting up, I step out of my car and throw Mike a grin and he introduces me to Rod. A couple sleepy sentences and Mike and Rod head down the stairs. As I was putting my vest on I noticed two couples walking back from the sand in dress clothes that looked a little disheveled. They spoke some sort of eastern European language, the two girls seemed excited about the idea of people going in the water with these big boards at this hour, the two guys headed to their car that was parked in the lot.

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I entered in the bay, getting a good paddle as I headed to first. There were just three of us for 45 minutes. Mike and Rod hung inside and I had first to myself. It was mostly waist high and at times a decent mid chest wave would pass through, a couple preemie forerunners from the incoming swell made an appearance although their huge gaps between those sets. The crowd hovered at about 12 to 14 people for the most part, as I was leaving a handful of surfers folded into the mix.

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Music — Tortoise & Bonnie 'Prince' Billy — Cravo e Canela

Sway Baby

Add some pappaya orange, pineapple yellow, clean grass green, ocean blue and healthy soil red and brown. And then sway those hips to mix up real good.

This is an early exploration of my Hawaii inspired paintings.

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On a side note, while surfing the other day, a buddy mentioned to me that he has a board locker in Waikiki that he has had since the '70's, he pays 10 bucks a month to keep his board there. He said I can use it, if the offer still stands the next time I go, I'll have to take him up on that. There's such a high demand for these lockers that they get willed to family members, It's not unheard of for people to offer thousands of dollars for them.

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Music — Na Leo — Ku' u Hoa

Fun In The Sun

The 'bu was pretty fun this AM. After speaking to Mike for a couple minutes I headed out, by 5:15 I was in the line up. A good shoulder high came to me and I slipped in a good ride, quickly got the nose for a perch and then had to step back and get low to make it out of a quick closing section, I grabbed my rail and pig dogged through it, the face opened up again for some clean roller coasters. I set the rail in and headed back up to the nose and rode it all the way in. It was pretty fun out.

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Music— Walt Mink — Bareback Ride

Take Off At Queens

The 7 year olds first wave at Queens was somewhat of a gem, I was stoked for the little guy since he rode it for a good 60 yards and he really enjoyed it.

Since I push him in, I see the ride from the back of the wave (that's me in the distance).

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After that session I headed to a peak off of Kuhio and met M. Godinez. Meagan will be surfing for Team Hawaii in The Malibu Classic this September. She surfed in the T & C Surf Women's Pipeline Pro in May and did well in the Longboard final. As an aside, an unexpected event occurred in that same event during the Pro Bodyboard final, the contest was interrupted by the surprise visit of a 6-7 foot shark. The shark was spotted in the contest area thrashing about. Competitors were required to leave the water immediately and had to allow 2 hours to pass before reentering, according to City and County of Honolulu regulation. Officials had to resort to dividing the prize money, $475 to each of the girls in the finals.



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Music — Cecilio and Kapono — Good Night And Good Morning

Mirandas Rights...What's Up Doc

One of the days at Queens, D. Miranda was in the line up. It was great sharing waves with him. The waves were summer fun small, Queens and Canoes were pretty much breaking 2-4 for the 11 days we were in Oahu.

Dino charging Honolua Bay, Maui. Photo courtesy www.valleyislesurfboards.com



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Later that day, after a surf session with the kids, we headed up at the shack to get some hawaiian ice and we bumped into 'Doc', who was in town, I introduced my two boys to him and we talked for a bit. I appreciated the time he gave to my kids, he was as nice as ever. He just had a new hip replaced 6 months ago and he was already out surfing.

Doc at SanO 1942. Photo courtesy www.paskowitz.com



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Fast forward to now. I surfed Secos the last two days, 1-3 and fun. I took the 10 ft. Bruce Jones, which actually felt like I was surfing on a 7 footer after all the time I spent on those 12 foot Waikiki crowd pleasers.

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Music — Keoki Kahumoku — Aloha Sunday Stroll

Le'ale'a

Ohau left a profound effect on me, the memories of surfing tandem with my soon to be 4 year old daughter, Diamond Head in the back ground, catching her first wave on a 12 foot log with dad. Pushing my 7 and 9 year old boys into small waves that they took for over 50 yards. Sitting next to a palm tree with Wendy and watching the kids swim in the shallow shores at night.

The inspiration I was searching for has been tingling and the glow to create new paintings has me ready to go.

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Music — Hapa — Ka Uluwehi O Ke Kai

Going Island Style

It's pretty amazing that I've surfed for 27 years and have never made it to the islands. I've surfed all over Mexico and parts of Spain but never Hawaii. My wife has been there before, but this will be a first for this 41 year old and his 9, 7 and (almost) 4 year old kids. We're leaving today and for two weeks I'll be getting fun waves in fo' sho' as will the rest of the ohana, but equally as important is the artistic inspiration I hope to find.

Latahz.

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If your in town next weekend, which I won't be, go to doo dah surf (www.doodahsurf.com), a couple of friends and I put this on a few years back and it keeps growing, it's pretty fun and it's all about the stoke of surfing.
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Music — Ziggy Marley — Beach In Hawaii

Entrada

Entering the gazebo, some green and blue all rolled into one.

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Music — Silversun Pickups — All The Go Inbetweens

The Number 5

After soccer camp with the 9 year old, I'll meet up with Gordo for some small wave cheater cincos.

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Post session update. The 9 year old was to tired for a surf and Gordo never showed, so I headed through T. Cyn to it's end and went for a solo warm water knee high session.

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Music — The Apples In Stereo — Whats The Number

La Linea

At the alter.

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Music — Mr. Loco — Real Religious Man

Art Flip Cannonballs

I spent a little time painting today, the best part of the day was spent in the pool with my wife and kids. The 'middle one' (7) has got the flip, from the diving board, down. The 'youngest one' (3) made her first cannon ball attempt, it was perfect. The oldest, (9), was nursing an earache (poor guy), so he was just floating around with mom and dad.

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Music — Greg Laswell — Amazed