Like A Big Wet 'Stache

Today, I got in at 4:50 AM, entering the surf zone at such an early hour is very calming and relaxing, it was breakfast time for the larger fish as the smaller schools of bait fish were hopping.

The small swell was neither rising or receding. The conditions were at a stalemate, there were little signs though. A tease shoulder high kept your hopes up then it sectioned off or doubled up. The tide and lack of incoming swell served up some cork screws too. There were super long waits between the sets, so I moved inside a bit and started taking the calf-to-groin highs, doing twirlies and making the best of what was around, that was fun.

I took a small set wave and set up for the nose as Gordo was paddling out, I Kicked out further down the line and met up with G at the point.
An hour later it picked up a bit, a good 4+ wave set showed some promise. I was in the bay when this happened, I just finished a wave that made it all the way through. Standing in knee high water, I was treading the bay where the sand shelf transitions to cobblestone and rock. I decided to head back out. I grabbed a few more and headed in.

Plus: Gorgeous sunrise, a few fun rides
Minus: Tide, long waits

————

Music — Meat Puppets — Mother American Marshmallow

Downlike and Cold

Through the darkness I entered the water only to see Mike at the point by himself. It was small but plus size sets showed promise even though they were on the slow side. As I headed to first, I pierced the surface with a brisk stroke, the water temp must have dipped 5 or 6 degrees since yesterday. By 5:30 I had five rides. Moments later the sun would slowly start to rise and a few more people scattered bringing the grand total to six. Overall, it was smooth and soft with fair shape.

————

Music — Beth Orton — Anywhere

The Do Right Sky

There were light yellow chutes of rays pointed upward casting spot lights on the sky and the few clouds that were singled out. The bands of light were fanning out behind the hills, cutting through the light blue skies. I looked at Pete and Dave and pointed my chin in the direction of the bursting backdrop of blue and orange. The few of us that were out, took a moment to gaze at the sunrise.

————

It's been a while since the sun was out in full force so early in the morning, the sharp angle that it came in at blinded you at times as you slid down the line. The waves were on the smallish side, waist high. Early on the sets were coming in threes at about mid chest high and this was every 25 minutes or so. By 6:30 AM, I felt like my spring suit was too much as the sun was on preheat now for over an hour.

————

Music — Style Council — Long Hot Summer

Stop The Funk

There was size with shoulder high sets coming but the negative low tide and the WNW windswell added some funk to the SW. You could watch an episode or two of Sponge Bob between those sets as they were coming in every 25 minutes to a half hour, or so it seemed. The inside was working a little better as the morning went on. It was pretty textured out with more dimples in the water than Star Jones butt. Even with all the funk it was still pretty fun getting the toes over and the sun actually peaked through the clouds.

————

Music — The Secret Sun — Jesse Harris & The Ferdinandos

Past Peelers

This is a shot of Christian W. that I took during last years Classic. I donated a painting the last couple years and I will to do the same this year. As soon as I have something in mind I'll post it here.


In the mean time here's the Créme he was riding.

————

Music — Babasónicos — Los Calientes

Snap, Crackle, Stuffed

It was a damp morning, like a moist sponge. And the colors of the water and sky seemed like one. It was hard to make out the horizon line, the dark grey sky bled into the grey green water. The recent push of water has moved all the sand that once carpeted the cobble stones so I entered the water closer to the bay, I enjoy the paddle out as a opposed to walking in up top. A smooth surface drew me to the point and a quick shoulder high took me back to the sand where I entered. It was going to be another good day. As I paddled back out I saw Caro taking off on a nice wave, I was stoked to see some size still coming through. Sets were coming in shoulder to head high and on occasion a little over. Nothing like those 6 footers that play along.

————

This past week I saw plenty of photogs out popping shots of the big boys.

————

Music — Mark Farina — Dream Machine

Happy Toes Which Way Did They Go

I gave the H3 a rest and brought the Bruce Jones since I wanted to get some quality nose time. Another fun session with some size.

I actually saw someone fade right and go left on a righthander, not in a big beautiful 'S' turn sort of way where you bank off the mush and redirect yourself, this was in a sort of wrong way willy sort of way.

————

Music — Robbie Williams — Sin Sin Sin

Cantando

I spent the last couple of days hiking and admiring the powerful falls and bursting natural beauty of Yosemite with my wife and kids, the enormity of Yosemite's perfection was fresh in my mind as I paddled out this morning experiencing another side of mother natures grace. The swell.

She was on time and she greeted me with open arms that wrapped around cobble stones hugging the contour of the stretch of beach I was facing.

————

I took out the H3, connecting turns on the face of overhead waves, the board really came to life.

————

Music — Ben Harper — Gold To Me

Little Teepees

Pequeño peelers. Hopefully next week delivers.
————

Music—Fugazi—Closed Captioned

Bucket Wash (Gota)

Drip dry
with your onion skin toes
banged up by rocks
and a sunburned nose
Stained shirt awaits
while sleep's still in your eyes
Glance over your shoulder
to see water rise

Music — Francisco Aguabella — Agua Limpia Todo

Doña Quijote

She served up some 'machine like' 3 footers, with some pluses, today. My last wave, I grabbed a playful shoulder high and rode it a good 100 yards, I decided to call it a day, on that ride, cutting my DP a little shorter than normal.

————

P.S. Let's hope the U.S. can pull out a win today.

————

Music — Celia Cruz — Ella Tiene Fuego

Tranquilo Surf

A misty wet morning. I stood on PCH and peaked at the point, a couple people were down by the wall assessing the conditions, before long they drove off, thinking it wasn't worth it. For a moment, I was thinking the same thing, but I waited a little longer, I saw the lines coming through, there was some texture on it, due to variable winds. A few sectiony sets came through. With the tide rising quickly I thought there was potential so I entered the water.

————

I took note of the spot where the large section was crumbling on the sets and set up right there. Soon after a nice waist high came through and took me all the way in. I paddled back to the same spot and grab a second one. This wave held up better than the first even with the bump in the water.

————

I had it to myself for an hour until Rich and Pete paddled out.

"You were having too much fun by yourself so we decided to join in"

I replied, "It's not as bad as it looks."

A set rolled in and I was positioned to take it.

"Go for it Pete." Pete paddled into a little 4 footer that took him all the way in.

————

The conditions had potential to get worse due to the wind, so I grabbed one in and was thankful for what I had all ready enjoyed, all by myself.

————

Music — Roy Hargrove — Nothing Serious

Like Cool Gray #10

Thusrday morning was a gray morning, I threw on my spring and nodded to Jeff, who was unloading his board down in the parking lot. I glanced over at the creek and noticed it wasn't dumping like it was last week. I entered the gray water as the tide was rising giving way to colorless peeling glass.

————

Music — Tommy Gerrero — The Color of Life

The bu

A close friend, Frank Sacramento, shot this little dity of Gamboa. Check out the foot work.

————

Music—Sly & Robbie & Nambo Robinson—Mambo Taxi

Cars Mean Swell

That equation was true this morning. I made it out for dawn session, my normal parking spot, next to the stairs on PCH was taken, so I ended up parking several spaces further back, towards the parking entrance. There were plenty of cars which meant you didn't even have to check the conditions, you just threw the spring on and off you go. It was still dark out and there was a crowd of 10 that beat me to the water.

————

Quick Slide
I managed to wait my turn and grab a couple all the way to the sand, I thought to myself this is going to be a good morning. It was spectacular today.

————

Patiently Waiting The Round
An earlier set wiped out the lineup, I was set up next and off in the distance I saw a bus coming, the wave jacked up and I dropped in and slotted myself for a barrel ride as the lip was chasing me overhead, a looming section was approaching further down the line which was going to close the wave out, since I was leashless I hung in there as long as I could and then straightened out and took a ride in the soup.

————

Music — Built To Spill — Car

The wet of the warmth

Table Settings

————

Awhile back.
I created a series of drawings I named "Table Settings", these sketches were still lifes of wine bottles, wine glasses, roses, a plate, fork and or spoon. All of these items were usually arranged on a table with some chairs in the background. For me, these Table Setting drawings, brought a sense of warmth and sensuality and the sketches had some intentional symbolism. For example, the chairs usually floated behind the table in a sort of angelic wing formation depicting spirituality. The curves of the wine glasses and the bottle of wine had a seductive quality symbolizing the masculine and the feminine, man and woman. The plate and utensils were the rituals of the gathering, the feast, the celebration. The original sketches were in graphite on cardboard or pen and ink on cardboard, the lines bled into each other, all the objects were held together with some sort of union of intersecting form. At times, I started to incorporate musical elements, like a guitar, which had similar line and shape as a wine glass and bottle, further adding the seductive quality to the drawings.

————

Above. The latest exploration of the new round of "Table Setting."

————

Music — La Candela (Prendela) — Yerba Buena [Featuring Orishas]

Otro Cabito Wabito

Uno Mas. I'm sneaking five somewhere in the East Cape. Shot by Gordo.

————

Music—Carlos Vives—Pa Mayte

Cabo Libre

Cross steppin' down baja way. Image shot by Gordo.

————

I woke up to an excruciating pain in my neck, literally. I've been complaining about my left ear and it seems to have gotten worse. After zigzagging my way to the bathroom and trying to psyche myself into not thinking the pain was all that bad, I made a conscious decision to head to the 'bu. The truck was packed and I made it to the station to load up on petrol and maybe pick up some Advil. I got back into the car and sneezed and just about doubled over from the pain, I did a u-turn and headed home and crashed, eventually I made an appointment to see the doc. Prognosis, gnarly outer ear infection. No surfing for me till this clears up, maybe 5 days.

————

In the mean time I'll dream about some glorious waves in Cabo.

————

Music—Built to Spill—Wait