The lip

Spackled layers of wet sand.
Cabbage green and bubbly blue.
The water moves.
I'm caught in the middle.
I never ment to cause you harm.
It throws itself out.
Spins then twists and turns.
I make it outside, then go.
A sweet kiss from the lip.
I feel a little bit stronger and a little bit shinier.

Music—The Shins—Kissing the Lipless

Cheeto and the panaderia

Days had passed since we crossed the border into Baja. We were driving, exploring and surfing breaks during the day. The evenings were spent around a crackling fire, peeling stories off the days events. We were seventeen and this was to be our first surf trip.

With a stomach that was aching for food, we entered the panaderia. The baked goods were cheap and we needed to get the most out of our money.

"Hola mijo."

The lady behind the counter remembered us as we were driving into to town on a regular basis to load up on cold beer and galletas.

"Buenas" "I'll take one of those."

It was puffy and dusted with white sugar that looked like sand. It reminded me of the ground I was sleeping on.

——————

The day the waves went flat, we went into town. We approached the same panaderia and then the cantina. A lonely puppy was sitting outside the entrance to the bar, wagging it's tail, we kept walking and the puppy followed us in. Upon entering, I noticed in the corner, next to a bull fighting poster, there was a woman singing Rancheras to an empty room.

"Cuatro Bohemias, por favor"

The beers arrived quickly. I took my first swig and looked down at the floor to see if the flea bag was around, he was laying at our feet looking up at us like he had just encountered long lost friends. We asked the bartender about the dog. He told us that he is a stray and just roams around town. After a few more beers we decided to call him "Cheeto" since that was what he was eating when we first saw him. The trip had a mascot and maybe he'll bring waves.

——————

That night we slept on the sand like we did all the other nights, making sure we were well beyond the high tide line. I woke up to the sound of smashing water. Waves! After dusting myself off, I stood up to see the lip come crashing down off a perfect wave. Cheeto was sleeping next to the fire, curled up in a ball. Slowly, the others started to wake. After a quick run to make some morning deposits behind the sage, we hopped on our boards and headed out.

Several hours had passed. We all started to head in, one by one, from our early morning session. A quick breather, some water and we headed back out. After the marathon surf session we made it back to the spot where we had the campfire only to notice that Cheeto was gone.

It seems like there's a punch line in there somewhere, but none that I can think of.

Music—The Sea and Cake—The Cantina

Primera vez

I remember Parker, Des and Darrin and the donut shop.
My first ride, well, parts of it are vivid, like the color of the water and the glow I felt. I remember angling into the wave, popping up and discovering my feet beneath me. The ride must of lasted no more than 5 seconds tops, although, in my mind, I could have easily dragged it out to a minute in slow mo'.

Parker had a drivers license, some wheels and a desire to surf. Although the rest of us were to young to drive, we matched Parkers desire to ride waves. That year, spring break was filled with routine, waking up at 4:30 to the tap on the window, driving Topanga Canyon listening to Foghat Live over and over and stopping by Earls to get a chocolate milk and donut.

Those mornings were cold and dark. I'd slip into my over sized unsnapped blue beavertail that my mom and dad bought me and headed out with my no name backyard board that I picked up at a garage sale. Mornings were filled with nose dives, getting whipped over the falls and backing out of waves. Until that day.

What ever it was that drew me to surfing. Thanks, the donuts are on me.

Surfer rosa

El rio mouth

Lagrima surf

Showers heading our way.

Cheap but good help

La Calle and the big 10 inch

A good two hour session, some breakfast burritos and a bee line home for some family time.

I picked up Gordo at 6:30 for a session up north. We timed it so we would be entering the water as the tide was heading out. Upon arrival we saw some chest high rollers. We parked at the condos and headed out. I broke in the new board an H3 pin tail. Today I surfed it with the big 10 inch HP fin. it was mostly 3 foot, with some head high sets. It was pretty fun to surf it from the tail on those bigger sets, the turn connectivity was great, very responseive on the meaty part of the wave.

Gordo's got the z's

Showed up at the spot again, made it in the water by 5:30. The swell died a bit and the tide was choking the bumps, but I saw the potential. The place to be was in front of the normal take off zone where two waves wedged and the reform created a nice little wave with great shape.

Neptune was kind.
I thought that in about a half hour, as the water drained a little, the spot would start to show. During a little lull, I thought I'd sacrifice my gum to Neptune by swallowing it, almost immediately he offered up a 'Danny Devito sized' set wave. It's starting to show a little life, if Gordo makes it out he'll time it perfectly.

I set myself up in the mid zone where I could meet the sets and pick off some of the smaller wedged reforms. The take off spot was fickle and I was the only one out. As the sun rose, over the chunk of land that extended out further south, it warmed my face. There was great light, an orange glow with white clouds smudged along the blue skies.

Another hour and a half session.
Is that G? Someone was just entering the water as the first wave of a little set wave came through. Nope not Gordo, perfect timing. I'll take it all the way in.

Hey Gordo, wake up.

Underwater

I approached Pete (foulweather.com), a talented writer, and asked if I could send him some illustrations, he was cool enough to send me a short story "Thomas and I" (see above)

I also had the opportunity to read the first chapter of a novel he's working on, it's a great read.
Head to the Foul Wether link.

Noodles and Malibu Pete

As I left the house, the first thing I thought was it's not as cold today and the coffee tasted good.

Driving through Topanga, I contemplated stopping off at Noodles pad to leave a note on his car to let him know where I was heading, I was thinking maybe he'll be up for it, then remembered they have a newborn, I kept driving. Passing Froggy's, a rustic, little restaurant that's sits across the creek from Noodles I wondered about things like, when am I going to get the side view mirror fixed. Making it past another curve I saw a deer dart by and duck into the bushes.

On PCH all the indicators showed very little, I was hoping something's got to wrap around. As I made it past another bend close to my final destination I saw a nice four foot face roll towards the rock, the shoulder rising, lifting the kelp and setting it aside in a place slightly different from where it was originally.

Nobody out. A U-turn.

A final tug on my wetsuit zipper to make sure I was sealed in and I was off. As I grabbed my board and headed to the sand I saw a 'nipple high' peel from the rock it was almost identical to the one I saw earlier. It was mid tide and dropping. The already tight take off zone was made smaller due to an overgrown kelp bed that was encroaching on "the spot". Enough room for two or three with a nice rotation, but perfect for one. I made it to waters edge and hobbled over the cobblestones till I was deep enough to set the board down. The water is cold, about 54 degrees, up from the low 50's just last week. I continued paddling over some rolling mounds of water. I made it to the spot as a wave greeted me. With a quick spin around, I glided across the face with a nice fade and then redirected myself back into trim the steepening shoulder, a quick stall to dig the rail, I begin to cross step to the nose with feet I can't feel. Finishing the wave with a grin inside my head, I paddled back out. Again, I was greeted by another four footer. Good morning.

Kicking out of another wave, I saw someone pull over on PCH for a surf check. I turned and headed back to the spot, thinking, it was good while it lasted. I surfed another 30 minutes, making it a good hour and a half session. I noticed the guy on PCH was still waiting patiently. After riding one of the better sets of the day, I was done, thinking I'll end it on a perfect note, having it all to myself and at the same time, allowing the dude waiting on PCH to have some fun.

Walking up the wooden steps towards PCH to change, I noticed the guy waiting, it was Malibu Pete, a buddy from the 'bu.

"Hey Pete"

"Patch, It looked fun"

"I didn't want to crowd you"

"Get out there it's all yours"

A little more small talk about any swell activity that might be heading our way and then Pete was off towards the water line.

As I finished changing I glanced over at Pete, who was reaching the spot, he swung his board around and met the oncoming wall of water. It was his turn.

No paddle take off

The smell of damp chaparral mixed in with a hint of black licorice, sea foam awaits you as you descend the steep cliff wall.
Although it took effort, it was effortless.

You are there.

The tip

Perched on the nose as a Chubasco sends it's love into the open arms of the 'bu.

King stance

Buffalo style.

Grommito no. 1

Last summer. My oldest one taking a right hander reform.

Cuatro chicas en playa hermosa

Derecho

da 'bu

I donated this painting to the MSA at last years Malibu Classic. Looking forward to some of those south swells.

Mostly crumbly junk

Sock it to me

Gordo and the marathon

The plan is to get a late afternoon session in. Gordo's biking the marathon today, I'll be coaching the middle ones soccer team.
Last time I surfed with Gordo, it was a clean day at Secos, about shoulder high and an unbelievable high pressure system had the weather up in the 80's. Not today, we're still in that cold front slump. The swell is still a short period wind swell with a good chance of the winds turning onshore. It will end up being one of those days that you end up just getting wet.

Kiddy slide a-go-go

Looks I'll be booking the trip to the islands soon. No Cabo trip this year, instead my wife and I will be taking the groms to surf Waikiki. The nine year old has been surfing every summer since he was 5 years old. The six year old has been getting pushed into waves since he was three. The 9 year old caught his first Malibu wave last summer, yeah It brought a tear to my eye seeing him paddle into a clean 2 footer, once on the wave, he slid along the face all on his own, a pretty good ride from kiddy bowls until the wave petered out, then he finished the wave off nicely. This summer I'll focus on getting my 3 year old daughter into some belly rides.

New stick

Early in the week I got the call. Robbie at Harbour let me know the H3 is ready, I can't wait to take it out. It so happens that this is one of the last H3's that Tim shaped from a Clark blank. I brought it home to some excited kids. With the junk swell at hand, I think I'll wait to take out. In the mean time I'll take the Bruce Jones and the RA to Johnny's to get water tight. Looking forward to hitting Secos soon.